Hailing from the former Vidon Vineyard (sold in 2020), the 2015 estate “Saturn” Syrah is velvet in a glass at almost 10 years young. Founder, farmer, and chief raconteur Don Hagge, and winemaker, biologist, and principal collaborator David Bellows, conspired to make exceptional Syrah in North Willamette Valley. Dave brought a practical and professorial approach to their projects, reining in Don’s occasional over-exuberance. They together succeeded with an early liftoff with the 2014 vintage. It’s a legendary story and wine. And they nailed the landing.
Don, as some of you may remember, is a scientist, and particle physicist who worked for NASA during the heydays of the Apollo missions 7 through 13. Saturn was the booster engine behind Apollo 11’s flight to the moon in 1969, which should give you some idea of Don’s age (currently unannounced). Hint: Don purchased the 13-acre estate when he “retired” at age 69. He pulled up Christmas tree roots and planted vineyards on the hilly sedimentary soil of the Chehalem Mountains AVA. He used early ripening rootstock, which contributed to the success of Syrah plantings, which was not common at that time in North Willamette Valley. Don was either smart or lucky (maybe both) and may have anticipated climate change. He was fortunate that way.
Anyway, fruit, acid, and tannins are all still intact and perfectly balanced. Holding onto this wine has paid off handsomely and thankfully, I have a few more bottles left in my cellar. This is an outstanding example of the direction and possibility of Syrah wines in Willamette Valley. The wine is full-bodied and textural with restrained alcohol at under 14%. We paired the Syrah – on New Year’s Eve 2024 – with an Italian gravy that included pork chops, Italian sausage, homemade meatballs, and several hours of patience. All worth the wait. Mission accomplished Don and Dave.
The 2015 Saturn Syrah exemplifies what Vidon was back in the day – pioneering, maverick, experimental – and sometimes outstanding.